Greetings. After a long week at work I made a reservation at the newest instalment of one Michel Richard, CENTRAL. Billed as a semi-casual semi-bistro with all the greatest hits of Michel's fine food i was looking forward to my experience. I even did my homework and actually read up the most recent review.
Interesting little spot stuck in across from the old post office downtown. Not at all what i expected when i walked in. To me the place seemed a bit to stand-up-ish. What is that you may ask.? It was to bright and with these tall ceilings you find yourself looking around at nothing. Not let me get this straight. The place is beautiful. Good clean lines, not one but two impressive wine rooms, whimsical stacks of plates and tea cups and who can forget the larger than life pop are of Michele smiling and looking over his room. It's just that all that blond wood and light colors remind me more of a hotel multi-purpose restaurant than what i was expecting to fine at CENTRAL.
Now for the delicious part. Bombay Sapphire and house made pepper and lime soda was a hit. So cool and refreshing that I sucked it down like it was pop. Not too peppery or to much lime, great fizz on the homemade soda. First course was a duo of carpacciao with tuna and salmon. The fish was delicious. The fish was, however sliced so thin that the defining color of the fish was masked with the condiments making it hard t0o distinguish which fish you were about to eat until it was inches away for your mouth. Flavor and presentation was spot on an all an all the duo was very well received. Second starter was a mixed charcuterie plate called Michele's Platter. Wonderful prosciutto, salami, faux gras (chicken liver mouse?) cornichions and toasted bread.
I have only had one such plate recently that was a bit better, In of all places Ocean City, MD there is a spot called Liquid Assets Wine & Martini Bar. Their plate has the addition of oil cured olives, a variety of flatbreads and toast points and grilled cipollini onions. CENTRAL's was a very close second but we are talking the all time list here.
Second course, a true french classic and one of my personal fav's. Frisse with Lardons and a Poached Egg. Great salad, but i like it more when the egg is actually warm or hot and wilts the greens as you eat. The cool egg gave the salad a strange-stringy consistency. (number one frisse and lardon salad with egg......Petite Louis in Roland Park, Baltimore. Go Cindy.)
Now for the main courses... drum roll please. Skake and the 72 hour short rib. What? a piece of meat that has been cooked for 72 hours? this must be so tender and flavorful that you don't actually have to chew but rather close your mouth around it and absorb it. Tender , yes. Flavorful, yes. The be all, end all when it comes to short ribs, nope. I was so looking forward to this meal and was largely underwhelmed. I totally understand that this was not Citronelle nor should i have expected that type of cuisine. But help me out a bit. There was nothing overwhelming with this meal......in fact all the food reminded my of other places that i had eat that i preferred there version better. How dare i actually speak those words. Will i go back? Yes, and maybe i will try one of the burgers (lobster looked good, but people only see,m to eat the "patty" and the fries.)
Again, sorry to report that my meal was very under-whelming. Oh, and you might ask about the skate. Well, actually, Mon Ami Gabbie has a better one. Ouch.
Interesting little spot stuck in across from the old post office downtown. Not at all what i expected when i walked in. To me the place seemed a bit to stand-up-ish. What is that you may ask.? It was to bright and with these tall ceilings you find yourself looking around at nothing. Not let me get this straight. The place is beautiful. Good clean lines, not one but two impressive wine rooms, whimsical stacks of plates and tea cups and who can forget the larger than life pop are of Michele smiling and looking over his room. It's just that all that blond wood and light colors remind me more of a hotel multi-purpose restaurant than what i was expecting to fine at CENTRAL.
Now for the delicious part. Bombay Sapphire and house made pepper and lime soda was a hit. So cool and refreshing that I sucked it down like it was pop. Not too peppery or to much lime, great fizz on the homemade soda. First course was a duo of carpacciao with tuna and salmon. The fish was delicious. The fish was, however sliced so thin that the defining color of the fish was masked with the condiments making it hard t0o distinguish which fish you were about to eat until it was inches away for your mouth. Flavor and presentation was spot on an all an all the duo was very well received. Second starter was a mixed charcuterie plate called Michele's Platter. Wonderful prosciutto, salami, faux gras (chicken liver mouse?) cornichions and toasted bread.
I have only had one such plate recently that was a bit better, In of all places Ocean City, MD there is a spot called Liquid Assets Wine & Martini Bar. Their plate has the addition of oil cured olives, a variety of flatbreads and toast points and grilled cipollini onions. CENTRAL's was a very close second but we are talking the all time list here.
Second course, a true french classic and one of my personal fav's. Frisse with Lardons and a Poached Egg. Great salad, but i like it more when the egg is actually warm or hot and wilts the greens as you eat. The cool egg gave the salad a strange-stringy consistency. (number one frisse and lardon salad with egg......Petite Louis in Roland Park, Baltimore. Go Cindy.)
Now for the main courses... drum roll please. Skake and the 72 hour short rib. What? a piece of meat that has been cooked for 72 hours? this must be so tender and flavorful that you don't actually have to chew but rather close your mouth around it and absorb it. Tender , yes. Flavorful, yes. The be all, end all when it comes to short ribs, nope. I was so looking forward to this meal and was largely underwhelmed. I totally understand that this was not Citronelle nor should i have expected that type of cuisine. But help me out a bit. There was nothing overwhelming with this meal......in fact all the food reminded my of other places that i had eat that i preferred there version better. How dare i actually speak those words. Will i go back? Yes, and maybe i will try one of the burgers (lobster looked good, but people only see,m to eat the "patty" and the fries.)
Again, sorry to report that my meal was very under-whelming. Oh, and you might ask about the skate. Well, actually, Mon Ami Gabbie has a better one. Ouch.
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